Set your anchor (A) and float the coiled-up and tied rode (C) at the surface with a float or buoy (B) — a fender might do.  I used floating polypropylene line for this and didn’t need a float. 

Next, tie the end of your long loop-line to the anchor rode at E, using a rolling hitch, rings, snap shackles, whatever.  Your boat connects to the anchor here so make it secure: tolerate no slippage.

Lead the line through a block, fairlead, or ring at the bow of your boat (D) so that it can be taken all the way ashore, turned around something solid and not too abrasive (F) and back to the boat where it will be cleated at the bow (G).

Pulling on the part of the line tied to the rode at E will pull the boat out to anchor, and pulling on the part cleated to the bow will bring it in to shore — the arrowheads on the diagram above show where the boat goes when you pull.

Your line must be continuous.  I used 200’ of 3/8” floating white braid, far stronger than I needed for my 17-footer and, later, for the heavier Grampian 23’.  Keep the line fairly taut when the boat is at anchor and it won’t move. 

Loop-line anchoring is best for a boat whose bow you can bring right in, step ashore, set up camp, pull the boat out to safety... ideal for small shoal-draft sailboats and powerboats.

If you want to set a stern anchor as well, you’ll need a long and painful thinking session ....  maybe best just forget it.